A tad over-excited by our first hurrah at TOLLHOUSE Canonmills, these bitches have already drained two bottles of Gewurztraminer en route – from Alsace, lush – and still arrived unfashionably early. Fortunately there’s an inviting bar, a hot barman, and a bottle of Piper Heidsick on ice. HUZZAH!

Soon our party is headed to a table, where we can truly admire our fabulous surroundings. This new member of the DINE family boasts wonderfully modern architecture, a gorgeous location on the Water of Leith, and bustling atmosphere.
Completing the picture, our hot barman – aka lovely Angus – who promises we will NEVER run out of wine. Though before we select our next cheeky bottle, there’s a series of gorgeous appetisers to help us at least TRY to remain upright.
Catalonian Gordal olives, artisan bread, and an incredible butter of caramelised shallots & capers has us all utterly delighted. This is SO much more than a bijou snackette, it’s the promise of many wonderful things to come.

Naturally we gravitate – like a heat-seeking missile – towards the Chicken & Ham Roulade with burnt apple puree, apricots soaked in whisky & seeded pate brick. Even more incredible than it sounds, we’re already awarding Tollhouse five stars.
Our excitement grows yet further with a visit from Angus, lovely Angus, who encourages to throw back at least three rather saucy bottles of Dreissgacker – a biodynamic German riesling with citrus, peach & racy acidity we INSIST you try!
All of which brings us to the rather intense climax of this indulgent culinary tale: a sensational Braised Lamb Shoulder with Moroccan spiced couscous, harissa turnip, raisin, and a dazzling caper puree. WOWSERS!

From the first bite, we are utterly in love. The lamb is so tender, and boasts SO many unexpected flavours – all of which surprise, but never overwhelm. FYI Caper Puree: YOU will always be in our hearts, you’ve even made couscous MOUTHWATERING.
Meanwhile our irresistable dining companions are raving over the Toasted Bread Soup with mustard, shiitake mushrooms & confit garlic, not to mention the Smoked Duck Breast with cream cheese, blood orange gel & ginger crumble. OOSH!
Though, as is our mantra in life, why stop at just ONE climax?? There’s still the likes of White Chocolate Namelaka [ Japanese for ultra creamy ] with incredibly boozy cherries, and the luscious Banana Cake with dulce de leche for us to devour.
This of course, also means it’s time for – ding dong – a shedload of dessert wine, and another visit from lovely Angus. TOLLHOUSE we TRULY love your work!

Reviewed November 2022
The Tollhouse
50 Brandon Terrace
Canonmills
EH3 5BX
